Adhesive types

Every adhesive chemistry we cover. What each one is genuinely good at, where it lets you down, and which materials it suits.

Adhesive Strength Flexibility Water Gap filling
Two-part epoxy Structural Rigid Water resistant Medium
Cyanoacrylate Medium Rigid Water resistant Low
Polyurethane adhesive High Unknown Water resistant Low
MS polymer High Flexible Water resistant High
Structural acrylic Structural Semi rigid Water resistant High
Contact adhesive Medium Flexible Water resistant None
Silicone sealant Medium Very flexible Waterproof High
PVA wood glue High Semi rigid Unknown Low
Solvent cement High Rigid Unknown Low
Hot melt, hot glue Medium Flexible Unknown Medium
Epoxy putty High Rigid Water resistant High
Anaerobic adhesive, threadlocker and retainer High Semi rigid Water resistant Low
Grab adhesive, no-nails High Unknown Unknown High
Acrylic foam tape, VHB type Structural Flexible Water resistant Medium
Spray adhesive Light Flexible Unknown None
UV cure adhesive High Unknown Unknown Low
Polyurethane wood glue High Semi rigid Waterproof Low
Flexible fabric adhesive Medium Very flexible Water resistant Low

Two-part epoxy

The general purpose structural adhesive: two components mixed to order, strong on almost everything, and genuinely good at filling gaps.

Cyanoacrylate

Instant, thin and very convenient, but only on close-fitting joints that will not flex or get hot.

Polyurethane adhesive

Strong, waterproof and slightly flexible, and it foams as it cures, which is either useful or messy depending on the job.

MS polymer

The modern all-rounder for outdoor and flexible joints: strong, weatherproof, paintable, and it sticks to almost everything without a primer.

Structural acrylic

Industrial-strength two-part acrylic that bonds difficult plastics and lightly contaminated metals where epoxy struggles.

Contact adhesive

Coat both surfaces, let them go touch-dry, then press together for an instant bond across the whole area with no clamping.

Silicone sealant

A sealant first and an adhesive second: unbeatable for waterproofing and heat, but it holds very little weight.

PVA wood glue

The default for wood to wood: cheap, safe, easy to clean up, and stronger than the timber itself on a well-fitted joint.

Solvent cement

Not glue at all: it dissolves both surfaces so they fuse into one piece. Unbeatable on the right plastic, useless on the wrong one.

Hot melt, hot glue

Fast, cheap and forgiving for craft and temporary work, but it softens in a warm room and peels off smooth surfaces.

Epoxy putty

Hand-mixable epoxy in stick form for rebuilding missing material, filling large gaps and moulding shapes in place.

Anaerobic adhesive, threadlocker and retainer

Cures only in the absence of air between close-fitting metal parts. Made for threads, bearings and shafts, not for general bonding.

Grab adhesive, no-nails

Cartridge adhesive for fixing things to walls: high initial grab, generous gap filling, and no clamping needed.

Acrylic foam tape, VHB type

A double-sided acrylic foam that behaves like a thin flexible adhesive layer: clean, instant, and much stronger than ordinary tape.

Spray adhesive

An even thin film over a large area, for fabric, foam, paper and photos, from repositionable up to permanent.

UV cure adhesive

Stays liquid until you shine a UV light on it, then sets in seconds. Ideal for clear, precise work you need time to align.

Polyurethane wood glue

Waterproof wood glue for outdoor joinery, and it will bond wood to materials that PVA cannot touch.

Flexible fabric adhesive

Stays soft and stretchy when dry, so fabric, leather and vinyl still drape and flex. Washable grades exist and matter.