Repair guide
How to attach aluminium trim to an oak tabletop
Two-part epoxy bonds abraded aluminium to oak, but solid oak moves across its width with the seasons and a long rigid trim has to allow for that or it will split the joint.
The short answer
Abrade the aluminium immediately before bonding and use a two-part epoxy. The complication is not the adhesive, it is the oak: a solid top can change width by several millimetres between a damp winter and a heated room, and a rigid metal trim glued hard along its whole length will eventually tear itself off or split the timber. Bond a long trim along the centre only, or use a flexible MS polymer instead and accept a slightly softer joint.
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Time needed
- 30 minutes work, 24 hours cure
- What you need
- Two-part epoxy, 120 and 180 grit abrasive paper, isopropyl alcohol, low tack masking tape, clamps or tape, mixing card
Aluminium is a good substrate with one catch. The moment a fresh surface is exposed it grows an oxide layer, and that layer, not the metal, is what your adhesive actually grips. The oxide reforms in minutes, which is why the standard advice is to abrade and bond in the same working session rather than prepping everything in advance.
Oak brings two of its own. It is an acidic timber and in damp conditions it corrodes aluminium, leaving a grey stain and a weakened bond line, so an outdoor or kitchen table needs the joint sealed at the edges. And it moves. A 900mm wide oak top can shift three to four millimetres across the grain over a year while the aluminium stays exactly the same length.
For a short trim, under about 300mm, none of this matters and a full epoxy bond is fine. For a long edge trim, glue the middle third and leave the ends free to slide, or switch to an MS polymer that can stretch. A trim that is also screwed should have slotted holes at the ends for the same reason.
Step by step
- Sand the oak where the trim will sit with 180 grit, going with the grain, and vacuum the dust off. Do not wipe it with water.
- Abrade the bonding face of the aluminium with 120 grit until the shine is gone, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
- Dry fit the trim and mark its position with low tack tape either side.
- Mix two-part epoxy on a card to the exact ratio on the pack.
- Spread a thin layer on the aluminium and a thin layer on the oak.
- For a trim longer than about 300mm, apply epoxy only to the middle third and a flexible sealant to the outer thirds.
- Press the trim down, slide it slightly to wet the joint, and align it to your tape marks.
- Clamp or tape at 100mm intervals with light pressure and leave it 24 hours.
What to avoid
Do not abrade the aluminium the day before. The oxide layer regrows and you lose most of the benefit.
Do not run a rigid glue line the full length of a wide solid oak top. The timber will move whether you allow for it or not.
Do not use PVA wood glue. It will hold the oak side perfectly and simply peel off the metal.
Oak tannins corrode aluminium when moisture is present, so seal the joint edges on anything that will get wet and do not use this combination outdoors without a sealed bond line. Wear gloves when handling uncured epoxy.
The full bonding guide
Everything about gluing Aluminium to Oak
Last reviewed 13 September 2026.